Interesting returning to San Telmo after becoming a “citizen” of Buenos Aires for a couple weeks. I didn’t realize how touristy it was! I remember my first day I kept stealing glances at passersby to determine whether they were a local or a tourist. I had no idea. Now, clearly they are all tourists! I really stuck out in Recoleta, but these are my people here in San Telmo.
When Ana Maria took me for a walk in her neighborhood of Recoleta my first evening, I spotted a poster for “Hairspray” and discovered that the musical was playing only a few blocks from her apartment.
I’ve learned a lot about “Hairspray” because the world premiere took place at The 5th Avenue Theatre (before I entered the picture), and I did some publicity for the Northwest premiere of the movie version in 2007. But I have never actually seen the live musical, and I thought, how special to see it for the first time in Argentina, in Spanish?!
Last Friday on my way home from class I took a detour and stumbled upon Teatro Astral with giant “Hairspray” neon pink, blue and yellow images decorating the block. Tickets cost between 110-180 pesos ($35-60 dollars), a fraction of the price on Broadway, so I decided to treat my host mom as a thank you gift.
Ana Maria had never heard of the show before and wasn’t familiar with the story or music, but she had seen two of the local stars perform before. She was especially excited about Pinti (playing Mrs. Turnblad – John Travolta’s role in the film), a stand-up comedian famous for his ability to speak so rapidly that even porteños can’t understand him.
Two of my Ecela classmates (from Germany) decided to join us, and the four of us met in front of the theater on Wednesday night at 9 pm. The production was top-notch, with a fantastic orchestra, enthusiastic chorus, and spot-on actors in the roles of Tracy, her mom and her friends Penny and Link. Seaweed and the three “¡Bienvenidos a Sesenta!” ladies had incredible voices. There are quite literally no black people in Buenos Aires, so the rest of the “negros” were portrayed by latinos wearing dark wigs. And of course it was not difficult to find a sleazy, fluoride-bright smiling TV game show host-type to play Andy Collins.
Anica, Ana Maria, Molly and Martina
Hector with his gaucho/Spanish knife collection.
Sleepily drinking mate from brand new gourd and bombilla.
La Boca - famous neighborhood in southern Buenos Aires.
When Ana Maria took me for a walk in her neighborhood of Recoleta my first evening, I spotted a poster for “Hairspray” and discovered that the musical was playing only a few blocks from her apartment.
I’ve learned a lot about “Hairspray” because the world premiere took place at The 5th Avenue Theatre (before I entered the picture), and I did some publicity for the Northwest premiere of the movie version in 2007. But I have never actually seen the live musical, and I thought, how special to see it for the first time in Argentina, in Spanish?!
Last Friday on my way home from class I took a detour and stumbled upon Teatro Astral with giant “Hairspray” neon pink, blue and yellow images decorating the block. Tickets cost between 110-180 pesos ($35-60 dollars), a fraction of the price on Broadway, so I decided to treat my host mom as a thank you gift.
Ana Maria had never heard of the show before and wasn’t familiar with the story or music, but she had seen two of the local stars perform before. She was especially excited about Pinti (playing Mrs. Turnblad – John Travolta’s role in the film), a stand-up comedian famous for his ability to speak so rapidly that even porteños can’t understand him.
Two of my Ecela classmates (from Germany) decided to join us, and the four of us met in front of the theater on Wednesday night at 9 pm. The production was top-notch, with a fantastic orchestra, enthusiastic chorus, and spot-on actors in the roles of Tracy, her mom and her friends Penny and Link. Seaweed and the three “¡Bienvenidos a Sesenta!” ladies had incredible voices. There are quite literally no black people in Buenos Aires, so the rest of the “negros” were portrayed by latinos wearing dark wigs. And of course it was not difficult to find a sleazy, fluoride-bright smiling TV game show host-type to play Andy Collins.
Anica, Ana Maria, Molly and Martina
¡Buen día, Baltimore!
I could understand enough of the Spanish to know that they really localized the show, using the “vos” verb form instead of “tu.” (This is the equivalent of seeing “The Full Monty” the musical and discovering that the script had been translated from British English to American English.) I really enjoyed the sets, clever staging, costumes and music all the more for not understanding all the dialogue. In a way, this was like being back home again because I have spent so much time at the theater in Seattle.
On Friday night, Ana Maria invited her two sons, their partners (not married and probably never will be), and friends to dinner. She made her signature empanadas (stuffed with beef, onions, green olives, hard-boiled eggs and seasoning), which I have told her are the best in Argentina. From my experience with the family gatherings of my Mexican host family, I knew that this would be no party for me, but rather a three-hour marathon audio exam. Sure enough, the Castellano hit me like a wave, coming from seven people at once. I realized that every time Ana Maria spoke, I could understand her, and I thought, “Would I have to spend two weeks talking to each one of these people before I could pick up on their accent, typical verbs, favorite sayings and slang?” Sigh...
The dialect is so very different here than in Mexico. I met my cousin Ryan’s friend Valeria for drinks on Thursday night, and when we spoke Spanish, she pointed out a few things I say that are very Mexican and a few things that sound very “60-year-old housewife from Recoleta.” Apparently my particular brand of Spanish is as clear as the stamps in my passport. Can’t wait for additions from Chile!
Ana Maria´s oldest son, Diego, brought a bottle of champagne to celebrate the four years that he had been together with his girlfriend, but in a very dramatic turn of events, he announced that they were also celebrating the news that they were going to have a baby. Luckily I picked up on this tidbit before all seven people jumped up, shouting wildly, and nearly knocked over the table to embrace each other. My host dad Hector grabbed me and cried, “¡Voy a ser abuelo!” (I’m going to be a grandpa!)
It was incredible to share this emotional moment in the family’s history. My host mom said over and over that I had predicted it, because one day out walking she went wild over a baby in a stroller, and I told her that she was ready to be a grandma. :)
On Friday night, Ana Maria invited her two sons, their partners (not married and probably never will be), and friends to dinner. She made her signature empanadas (stuffed with beef, onions, green olives, hard-boiled eggs and seasoning), which I have told her are the best in Argentina. From my experience with the family gatherings of my Mexican host family, I knew that this would be no party for me, but rather a three-hour marathon audio exam. Sure enough, the Castellano hit me like a wave, coming from seven people at once. I realized that every time Ana Maria spoke, I could understand her, and I thought, “Would I have to spend two weeks talking to each one of these people before I could pick up on their accent, typical verbs, favorite sayings and slang?” Sigh...
The dialect is so very different here than in Mexico. I met my cousin Ryan’s friend Valeria for drinks on Thursday night, and when we spoke Spanish, she pointed out a few things I say that are very Mexican and a few things that sound very “60-year-old housewife from Recoleta.” Apparently my particular brand of Spanish is as clear as the stamps in my passport. Can’t wait for additions from Chile!
Ana Maria´s oldest son, Diego, brought a bottle of champagne to celebrate the four years that he had been together with his girlfriend, but in a very dramatic turn of events, he announced that they were also celebrating the news that they were going to have a baby. Luckily I picked up on this tidbit before all seven people jumped up, shouting wildly, and nearly knocked over the table to embrace each other. My host dad Hector grabbed me and cried, “¡Voy a ser abuelo!” (I’m going to be a grandpa!)
It was incredible to share this emotional moment in the family’s history. My host mom said over and over that I had predicted it, because one day out walking she went wild over a baby in a stroller, and I told her that she was ready to be a grandma. :)
The family toasts the exciting news.
Hector with his gaucho/Spanish knife collection.
Finally, in typical American fashion, I said goodnight at 1:30 am before the guests left because I don’t have the porteño all-night stamina. I suspect this is because I also have not been partaking of the mate ritual. Yerba mate is a Paraguayan (and Argentine) herbal tea and a strong stimulant. Porteños drink it all day long after staying up at night. As a parting gift, Ana Maria and Hector gave me a very pretty little mate gourd and “bombilla” (straw) decorated with the words “Buenos Aires.” Ana Maria also invited me for dinner when I return to BA for Juan’s arrival end of February. Mas empanadas…mmmm!
Sleepily drinking mate from brand new gourd and bombilla.
La Boca - famous neighborhood in southern Buenos Aires.
I check back twice a day for updates and was rewarded this afternoon! Can't wait to join you for adventuring! I also can't wait to try that tea :)
ReplyDeleteI ran into your folks outside The 5th Avenue last night - and was able to say hi after seeing them in all the travel photos from italy and mexico!!
ReplyDeleteSo, is it the norm for people to partner up without marriage there or are these guys against the norm?
Yay - that's wonderful!
ReplyDeleteIt is my understanding that young people in Argentina don't get married anymore.