I´m inside hiding from the afternoon heat at 5:30. How wonderful to be back in the world of long daylight and tank tops on the street at night. The 5 hour time difference has been more difficult than I anticipated. Last night I finally gave up trying to sleep at 3:30 when I realized that´s 10:30 and usually not yet my bedtime. Then this morning I pulled myself out of sleep at 10:00 to see that all 5 of my roommates had already risen (without my hearing a thing). No nap today and hopefully that will help me get back on track.
So far in my hostel I have met 3 girls from Brasil, 1 from England, 1 from Ireland, and a guy from New York. And of course the sweet French family I took my first tango lesson with last night. A dad (Jill?), a mom with a broken foot spectating, a younger daughter, and 15-year-old Roxanna. Instructor Marianna was petite & muscular at the same time and very emphatic. Spanish was the only common language - interesting speaking Spanish with native French speakers who don´t know English. We learned how to hold our bodies, how to enjoy just walking, frame, and one stylistic element (a kick of the leg). Also how to recognize the 3 main styles of Tango songs/rhythm: clasico, Tango-waltz, and Milonga. Michael, a very enthusiastic world traveler from California who speaks French, Spanish AND English, joined the class late. He is renting a house in San Telmo, has been here already ad month and wants to open a center ofr arts & culture and maybe live here for 3 or 4 years.
So far in my hostel I have met 3 girls from Brasil, 1 from England, 1 from Ireland, and a guy from New York. And of course the sweet French family I took my first tango lesson with last night. A dad (Jill?), a mom with a broken foot spectating, a younger daughter, and 15-year-old Roxanna. Instructor Marianna was petite & muscular at the same time and very emphatic. Spanish was the only common language - interesting speaking Spanish with native French speakers who don´t know English. We learned how to hold our bodies, how to enjoy just walking, frame, and one stylistic element (a kick of the leg). Also how to recognize the 3 main styles of Tango songs/rhythm: clasico, Tango-waltz, and Milonga. Michael, a very enthusiastic world traveler from California who speaks French, Spanish AND English, joined the class late. He is renting a house in San Telmo, has been here already ad month and wants to open a center ofr arts & culture and maybe live here for 3 or 4 years.
Tango lesson
After class everyone, including the mom with broken foot, continued on to a local Milonga (dance hall that is somewhat informal and participatory). On the way Michael, encourage by Marianna, picked up two long, thing "espejos" (mirrors) that someone had dumped on the street. He plans to use them in his art somehow. I´m not used to being around all of these artists. San Telmo is a beautiful, colonial neighborhood and Sandanzas is fabulous.
San Telmo
Love the Parque Lezame only a couple blocks away - I stumbled upon it my first night after buying a snack. There are actually groups of adorable old men playing lively games of chess on the built-in game tables in the park. Another "just lake in the films!"
Snack of empanadas
Juan will be disappointed - BA is definitely a dog city. Everyone goes out walking with dogs in the evening, but I´ve yet to see one cat.
Random Observations
- In the pizzeria bathroom, there was a rotating bar of soap on a stick over the sink. Kind of like a soap rotissery.
- Argentine presidents wear a sash and carry a baton, like beaty pageant contestants.
- Christmas decorations include plastic evergreen wreaths, snowflakes and tree ornaments - even though the holiday falls during the worst heat of summer.
- All waiters are men and they take their profession very seriously.
- All porteños really are obsessed with the tango and politics.
- The Casa Rosada "Pink House" - the equivalent of our White House - is not pink at all. President Sarmiento (1868-74) wanted to make peace & blend the red of Federalists with the white of Unitarists. In my opinion, it is the color of special sauce (a disgusting mixture of mayonnaise and ketchup). Another theory is that the color comes from painting the palace with bovine blood, a common practice back then, apparently.
Comments
Post a Comment